I've had one of the most exciting, interesting and eye opening days of my life today. I've been to the heart of South America's biggest favela - Rochina, as well as one of Rio's smallest - Favelihna. MC Gringo picked me up from my place and we caught a bus to Rochina. MC Gringo is a leading Baile Funk MC here in Rio and someone who's been sending me tunes for a while now. Baile Funk is a kind of underground music originating from Rio's favelas with big bad bass lines and real MCing - I could draw a lot of comparisons with the Grime scene in London.
Entering Rochina I was immediately struck by how busy it was - people were everywhere but I guess that's to be expected in a community of 400,000... It was also really vibrant, lively and colourful. We walked around a bit and then went to the house of Amendoin, community worker and local celebrity. His wife bought us drinks and we chatted on his veranda for a while - the scenery was stunning (check the pictures above) and the family so warm and generous. Then we hooked up with MC Galo and MC Som - two more Baile Funk MCs. Galo is the godfather of Baile Funk MCing and was one of, if not the first MC to rhyme over Baile Funk beats. We caught another bus to Favelinha favela and after a walk through narrow winding lanes and steep steep steps entered the studio of Radio Favelinha. When I say studio what I actually mean is someone's kitchen with a PC in the sink, an amp on the cooker and a mic connected. Everyone I met there was so hospitable and obviously very talented. Galo & Gringo jammed and then we were joined by an Austrian radio presenter who'd come to pre-record an interview with the two stars. We spent a few hours on-air, off-air, vibing, dancing and laughing (again check the pictures above).
After the show we all headed down to the local restaurant where we ate freshly barbequed meat, rice and salad as the sun set. Even the small Favelinha was bustling with life and the smell of fresh food combined with the sweet smell of newly washed clothes was comforting and encompassing. We walked back to the foot of Rochina (it's on a massive hill) and took a Moto taxi - i.e motorbike - up into another part of Rochina... Moto-taxi's are how the locals get around, Rochina being huge and very hilly to climb. We said our goodbyes to Galo, Som and then Natalie (the Austrian radio presenter) and Gringo & I stepped into the studios of Radio Gavea. Slightly more high tec than Radio Favelinha, Gavea is one of the most popular FM stations in Rio. Alex, the presenter, was again really friendly and considerate (and might have taken a bit of a shine to me!). At 9pm he started his show with (to my surprise) Gringo and myself as the guests! Had a great time talking about AfroReggae Digital on Gavea as well as dancing to Gringo's freestyle.
By this time it was getting late, so Gringo and I caught the bus from outside the studio back to Copacabana. Having time to reflect on my day and seeing yet more of Rochina through the bus window I couldn't help but think how amazing these people of the favela were. They obviously haven't had a great start in life and yet have done their uptmost to make the best of it. Rochina really is like a city in itself - there's churches, internet centres, shops and bars and the energy surrounding it is incredible. I feel only privileged and humbled that they've allowed me into their homes with such warmth and hospitality.
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